Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
